On May 27-28, we sailed from Puerto Rico to the Dominican
Republic to meet our friends Dennis and Jodie Hollinger-Lant, who
were flying in from Washington State to sail with us to Cuba. We wanted
to get to the DR quickly, because we wanted to spend a couple of days
finding cruisers who had been to Cuba, in order to get the straight
dope on conditions there. It was beautiful downwind sailing, 15 -
18 knots, and clear sky. With the spinnaker up, we were averaging
better than 9 knots, and our course to Luperon put us on a nice broad
reach; so when dusk came, we decided to leave the chute up. (Mistake
#1.) We continued to slide along beautifully, with autopilot and only
the occasional course or sheet change to keep on our jibe angle and
go fast. At midnight, Rob came on watch and observed "heat lightning"
in the distance, but it was not to windward of us, so we decided we
could risk leaving the chute up. (Mistake #2.)
At about 3:00
AM, the wind changed to the point where we were sailing 25 degrees
above course, so Rob trimmed the guy and eased the sheet to run
downwind. This, as it turned out, was mistake #3. At about 3:45,
Rob felt the wind change temperature and realized that something
was happening. As the wind increased and the boat started to roll,
he yelled for Andi to come on deck. She was already up, and she
slung on her safety harness and ran up the companionway steps. Rob
immediately went forward to snuff the spinnaker, but before he could
get to the control lines, the squall hit, the spinnaker bellied
out to windward of the boat, and Akka broached and jibed. The preventer
kept the boom from jibing across, so there Akka was, lying on her
side, nearly stopped by the backed mainsail, but with the chute
continuing to pull her forward. Andi put the helm hard over in an
attempt to jibe back, a well-known maneuver in racing sailboats,
and we both held on and waited to see whether Akka would respond.
This was mistake #4, as Akka is not a racing boat and her cabin
ports were open. Unbeknownst to us, the cabin was being flooded
the chute separated itself into 2 or 3 mini-chutes, the boat righted,
and we managed to drop the sodden mess on deck, get it into the
bag, and drag it into the cockpit. There was a bad moment when we
realized that part of the spinnaker was under the stern, but we
were able to get to its clew, unshackle the sheet, and pull the
sail out from under the boat.
It wasn't until
we went below that we realized the full significance of the episode.
While we were on our side, water had poured through the open cabin
windows all over everything, including our laptop computer, which
showed no signs of life. The water had then, of course, gone into
the bilge, where it had accumulated to just below the floorboards.
Unfortunately, the electric bilge pump chose this time to quit working,
so we were down to manual methods. We formed a bucket brigade, dipping
water out of the sump and into the sink, and quickly removed most
of the water. A hand pump got the rest. Chastened, we went back
on deck and reset sail for Luperon.
Once in port,
we took to drying out the boat (Andi strung the cabin with "clotheslines"
and hung out the sodden charts to dry) and seeing what we could
do about our VHF, depthsounder, and stereo, as well as finding out
why the wiring smoked when we turned on A/C power. The computer
was a total loss (it wouldn't even turn on) and we called in desperation
to Rusty Burshell of RCB Services in Yorktown Virginia. Rusty not
only found us a replacement computer (we have somewhat special needs
for ruggedness, as the computer has been known to fall to the deck),
but sent it to Seattle in time for Dennis and Jodie to bring it
with them next day!
A fellow cruiser
gave us his old VHF radio, which he said works perfectly, but we
were very interested in repairing ours, if possible. So we booked
a taxi (van) for all the next day ($36 US) and the owner-driver,
Miguel, took us to Puerto Plata, the nearest town, about an hour's
drive away. Miguel, as it turned out, spoke very little English,
so we were forced to converse entirely in Spanish. As a result,
our communications skills improved dramatically; but still, there
were little subtleties that were hard to convey to him. For example,
our first stop was a stereo repair place, but of course they couldn't
fix our VHF. We had tried to tell him we needed more specialized
service, but it wasn't until the people at the stereo shop told
him, that he fully understood. So off we went into the little side-streets
of Puerto Plata until we came to a narrow alley with a stairs. Mounting
the steps, we were shown into a living-room, then through the kitchen
to a small electronics workshop overlooking a yard full of banana
trees. Gill, the VHF repairman, immediately took our radio apart,
said he could fix it, and that we should return next day. As it
turned out, we didn't return until two days later when we again
used Miguel's taxi to pick up Jodie and Dennis at the airport, but
when we did return, he had the radio in fine working order. He had
all kinds of meters and things to test both transmission and reception,
and happily set up the transmit function to use 25 watts instead
of the 15 watts we had had before. All this cost us $24 US. The
radio still has some problems when we hook it up on Akka, but we
can't duplicate those problems at the electronics shop, so it's
probably our microphone, or the power supply, or something.
Poor Jodie and
Dennis were no doubt expecting to get on the boat and sail away.
What they got was a chance to repair the bilge pump, help solve
our general electronic problems, and load drinking water from 5-gallon
jugs into our tanks, as well as applying another coat of varnish
to their cabin floor. In the midst of all this activity, we found
people with recent experience in Cuba, had them on board, and let
them confuse us.
"Only go to
the south coast," exhorted one couple. "That's what we did, and
loved it; but another couple we talked to went north and hated it."
"I lived on
my boat on the north coast," said another cruiser, "and it's great.
Besides, from there you can go to Key West without beating upwind
against the trades."
A third boat
had just come from Cuba and had enjoyed the north coast, so we decided
to do that. Then we read the cruising guide more thoroughly, and
weren't so sure anymore. But in the end, we left Luperon and headed
west, with a new computer, a working VHF (or 3), pretty dry charts,
resolved AC electrical problems, and a magnificent, fast-pumping
bilge pump. Next step, Cuba (one coast or the other)!